Cosmetic Technology 1 – 2018 (pdf)

Rafforzamento della fibra del capello dall’interno – Riparazione della corteccia di capelli danneggiati
E. PJM Everaert, D. Tran, S. Zhang, B. Kroon, G. Zhang, B. Thompson, R. L McMullen
I consumatori spesso abusano nello styling dei capelli e fanno uso smodato di colorazioni. Frequentemente, i trattamenti intensivi provocano una serie di effetti dannosi alla delicata struttura del capello. In questi casi, il danno è tipicamente evidente sia sulla superficie che all’interno della fibra capillare; di conseguenza, oltre alla riparazione della superficie, alla nuova efficiente tecnologia si richiede anche di rafforzare e riparare la corteccia interna (1). In questo studio, nuove molecole che possono formare legami multi-idrogeno all’interno della struttura dei capelli sono considerate un valido mezzo per una completa riparazione degli stessi. Ora esistono strategie in grado di migliorare le proprietà meccaniche e riparare e rafforzare i capelli al di là dei livelli osservati nei capelli vergini. Lo sviluppo di applicazioni pratiche per queste tecnologie offre, come nuovi vantaggi al consumatore, capelli più forti, maneggevoli e meno soggetti a rottura. Il grado di riparazione del danno è stato valutato introducendo un nuovo concetto detto EDF (Equivalent Damage Factor).

Strengthening the hair fiber from within – Repairing the cortex of damaged hair
Consumers often indulge in hair styling and color treatment products. Frequent, intensive regimens, however, tend to result in a range of damaging effects to the fine structure of hair. In these circumstances, impairment is typically evident on both the surface and interior of the hair fiber. Accordingly, in addition to surface repair technology, novel, efficient technology is also required to strengthen and repair the interior cortex (1).
In this study, new molecules with the potential to multi-hydrogen bond at the internal structure of hair are considered as a strategy for comprehensive hair repair. Technologies now exist to enhance mechanical properties and to repair and strengthen hair beyond levels measured for virgin hair. Development of practical applications for these technologies afford new opportunities for additional consumer benefits, such as hair strength, hair manageability, and anti-breakage. The damage repair level was also evaluated by introducing a new concept called EDF (Equivalent Damage Factor).

La norma ISO 16128 – Cronaca di una delusione annunciata
M. Trovato, F. Piva, P. Poggiali

ISO 16128 – The history if a predictable disappointment
Standard ISO 16128 concerning “Guidelines for the definition and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products” should constitute an international reference for the area of natural and organic cosmetics. Noble intent, to regulate an increasing market, regulated at present only on a voluntary basis by private standards without officiality or legal force. However after long years of incubation these guidelines did not produce the wanted effects and represent a disappointment for those who believe and invested in this kind of products, considering them the physiological evolution of the cosmetic sector. This article intends to highlight some of the most critical aspects of the ISO 16128 Guideline, among those that put them far from the same objectives that in theory should have been achieved, to constitute a univocal, serious and credible reference in order to improve the choice of a wider variety of natural and organic ingredients in the formulation of the different categories of cosmetic products and to foster innovation.